The Most Iconic Comme des Garçons Collections of All Time
The Most Iconic Comme des Garçons Collections of All Time
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Comme des Garçons, the avant-garde fashion house founded by Rei Kawakubo in 1969, has long defied the conventions of clothing commes des garcons and fashion presentation. Far from following trends, Kawakubo redefines them—often with no regard for wearability or commercial success. Her collections are conceptual, emotional, and philosophical. Over the decades, Comme des Garçons has not only challenged what clothing can be but has also forced the fashion industry to reckon with the blurred lines between fashion and art.
Below, we take a look at the most iconic Comme des Garçons collections that have left an indelible mark on fashion history.
Spring/Summer 1997 – “Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body”
Arguably one of Kawakubo’s most influential collections, the Spring/Summer 1997 line is often referred to by fashion historians as the “Lumps and Bumps” collection. It was a direct challenge to traditional notions of beauty and the female silhouette. The models wore padding sewn into gingham dresses, distorting the body in unexpected ways. While critics at first recoiled, the fashion world eventually embraced the radical statement. It questioned the idealized human form and redefined what fashion could look like, ultimately influencing many designers in the years that followed.
Fall/Winter 2005 – “Broken Bride”
The Fall/Winter 2005 collection, also known as the “Broken Bride,” was a poetic and deeply emotional exploration of themes such as love, death, and the passage of time. Models walked the runway in deconstructed bridal gowns, layered with elements that resembled mourning clothes. The collection was haunting yet delicate, with Kawakubo capturing a narrative arc through fabric, texture, and silhouette. The emotional weight of this collection solidified her position not just as a designer but as a storyteller who uses clothing as her medium.
Spring/Summer 2014 – “Not Making Clothes”
In this collection, Kawakubo made perhaps her most radical statement yet: a declaration of freedom from fashion’s commercial constraints. Titled “Not Making Clothes,” it abandoned all pretense of creating wearable garments. The pieces were sculptural, oversized, and surreal—closer to abstract art installations than traditional attire. The show emphasized that Kawakubo is more interested in ideas and statements than sales or trends. This collection inspired a new wave of designers to embrace conceptual work, regardless of practicality.
Fall/Winter 2012 – “2D or Not 2D”
In Fall/Winter 2012, Comme des Garçons presented garments that looked flat, almost as if they had been cut from cardboard. The use of bold prints and cartoonish silhouettes gave the illusion of two-dimensional clothing. This visual playfulness was underpinned by serious craftsmanship and deep commentary on perception and surface. The collection proved that even in her sixth decade of designing, Kawakubo was still finding new ways to make us question reality.
Fall/Winter 2018 – “Camp: Notes on Fashion”
The Fall/Winter 2018 show played a pivotal role in shaping the theme for the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s 2019 Costume Institute exhibition, “Camp: Notes on Fashion.” Rei Kawakubo’s contribution to the camp aesthetic is unmatched—her exaggerated forms, bold colors, and theatrical constructions embody the essence of camp. This particular collection pushed the boundaries of excess, irony, and artifice, while still maintaining an intellectual core. It was dramatic and humorous, yet sophisticated, showcasing Kawakubo’s deep understanding of fashion’s power to provoke and amuse.
Spring/Summer 2020 – “Neo-Futurism and Victorian Mourning”
In Spring/Summer 2020, Kawakubo returned to dark romance, merging futuristic elements with Victorian mourning attire. The models wore jet-black ensembles that were both militaristic and baroque, with silhouettes that evoked power and vulnerability simultaneously. The materials ranged from metallics to tulle, all rendered in complex, layered shapes. It felt like a meditation on the past and future coexisting in the present, delivered with Kawakubo’s signature gravity and grace.
A Legacy Beyond Fashion
What makes Comme des Garçons’ collections so iconic is not just their visual innovation but their philosophical depth. Rei Kawakubo has often spoken about her desire to create something new, something that has never been seen before. She’s not merely designing clothes; she’s questioning systems, identities, and even the nature of creation itself.
Each collection is a chapter in an ongoing CDG Long Sleeve conversation about what fashion is—and what it could be. While many designers aim to impress, Kawakubo aims to confront. She’s not afraid to alienate or confuse, because she trusts in the power of her vision. And through Comme des Garçons, she has built a brand that is as much about thinking as it is about dressing.
In the often-commercialized world of fashion, Comme des Garçons remains a lighthouse for those who believe that clothing can—and should—be more than just what we wear.
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